|
| | | Forum Newbie
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/10/2010 12:34:36 AM
Posts: 6, Visits: 24 |
| I just got a new Cherry Cherry Classic Crystal from Cabela's, and there is no directions or instructions. Anyone have some guidance for a beginner?
The plexiglass surface of the call has a spot where you use the striker. Am I supposed to condition the whole thing so the whole surface looks like that? The conditioning kit has the drywall sanding screens and scotch-brite pad.
It also came with two strikers, and is there a preference for what you use and when you use it? All I can do right now is make noise to irritate the wife. 
|
| |
| | | Forum Newbie
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/10/2010 12:34:36 AM
Posts: 6, Visits: 24 |
| | ...I was searching through the old posts here, and was wondering if my call was supposed to come with a CD? There was nothing included direction-wise with my call. |
| |
| | | Forum Newbie
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/10/2010 12:34:36 AM
Posts: 6, Visits: 24 |
| Does anyone own one of these calls or have some tips? 27 views so far and no response?  |
| |
| | | Junior Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/1/2010 9:11:46 PM
Posts: 11, Visits: 31 |
| | I have this call. If I remember correctly it did come with some sort of CD, but really all you need to do (in a nutshell) is sand (with the drywall screen)the surface where you will be striking (about 1/3 of the way from the edge), sand in one direction and when calling, use your striker perpendicular to the direction you sanded. Hope this helps. Also, I like the birch striker. The other (I think heartwood?) tends to slip a little bit when I call aggressively. Just my preference though. |
| |
| | | Forum Newbie
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/10/2010 12:34:36 AM
Posts: 6, Visits: 24 |
| I've seen in a couple places where it says there is supposed to be a CD, but none came with it. I searched the forum, and did find some info. I used the drywall screen and sanded the surface with the grain of the wood.
I have been playing around with it and have noticed that the striker with the purple shaft does slip more, but I've still been trying both.
When calling, I'm looking at videos on youtube and am trying to figure out what exactly to do. What I need is a list of different calls that the turkey makes, and what do they mean. How do you know what noise to make and when?
I've seen some guys post the specifics like writing out the letter "M" with the striker, and would like to see some actual techniques to use. Otherwise I'm just guessing so far and have a fancy noisemaker. |
| |
| | | Junior Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 2/24/2011 5:40:51 PM
Posts: 10, Visits: 12 |
| | Reason not many replies is because a lot of it depends on personal preference. For instance, some like to hold the pot one way and other folks completely different. A striker position is another that changes depending upon who's talking. More than anything else, you want to do whatever works for you. The calls you want to master are a basic yelp, cutting, purring, and clucking. As long as it sounds good, don't worry about the particular details. Now, for the many different preferences, I'd recommend going to youtube and searching terms like "running a friction call" or "yelping on a slate/crystal call". Good luck. |
| |
| | | Forum Newbie
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/10/2010 12:34:36 AM
Posts: 6, Visits: 24 |
| bamarich,
Thanks for the advice. Youtube is great for "live" instruction.  |
| |
| | | Supreme Being
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 9:22:16 PM
Posts: 327, Visits: 1,250 |
| I may be doing things wrong but I use the scotch bright pad in the scuffed area (this is where the call was ran in the shop and matched with the stickers in your package) running with the grain of the wood and occasionally use the sanding squares if my call is getting slick. I leave the dust on the call, and every time I pull a stiker out of my bag I sand the tip and leave the dust there as well for the added friction. Usually you can see where the strikers were used in the shop this gives you a good idea where to start running the call and the you can play around until you find your own sweet spot. Personally I prefer the harder stiker and use a stike three most of the time but with the stikers provided I much prefer the purple heart but you do have to condition the tip or it will slip because it is harder wood. Hope this helps, anyway it shows that different people use different techniques and you really need to work out what works for you.
Ronnie |
| |
| | | 
Supreme Being
Group: Administrators
Last Login: 4/25/2012 6:23:46 PM
Posts: 325, Visits: 375 |
| | The spot that is roughed up is the sweet spot on the call. It is not required to condition any other parts of the call. Use the screen to "rough" the area and then rub the area with the scotch brite pad to complete the conditioning process. s.e. |
| |
| | | Forum Newbie
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/10/2010 12:34:36 AM
Posts: 6, Visits: 24 |
| [quote]Scott Ellis (4/25/2010)
The spot that is roughed up is the sweet spot on the call. It is not required to condition any other parts of the call. Use the screen to "rough" the area and then rub the area with the scotch brite pad to complete the conditioning process.
s.e.[/quote]
Thanks for the tip. I didn't get a CD with the call, and ended up searching the old posts here. I already conditioned the whole call surface since that is what someone said to do. Luckily the wasp design is underneath, so I know where the sweet spot was. Hopefully I didn't ruin the call, I didn't realize that there was a sweet spot on these calls. |
| |
|
|
